The proper usage of the jack-Stands
When I hear the word "car teasing", I hoed a car raised with a jack and the image which is dive under it is strong, but it is quite dangerous to jack up in the wrong way!
In the worst case, heavy items of 1 ton or more fall down. Naturally it will not be fine without ... If there is a lift like the image above, it is safe and comfortable, but it's not like a normal family indeed (laugh) |
The accident under maintenance like this is a major accident as a result of neglecting safety confirmation in general, so I will write about what is called " jack stands " that will raise the car body on this page including that area .
"Jack" necessary to lift a car
I would like to change the oil of the engine when raising the hand without reaching the car body, but if you can receive the waste oil, you can lower the car you dropped (lowered the car height) or bolt in the back of the car body like mission oil If you loose it, you will need to do the work of lifting the car body, say jacking up .
With DIY there are cases like that, there are cases where it is relatively light only to exchange tires one at a time, so by changing the jacks used from time to time, you can secure safety while improving efficiency of work .
Let me introduce these four jacks as the type of jack used.
Since it is convenient to have any of them, it is also good to arrange them all together as far as even the storage space is permitted, and to use them properly.
Jack Type 1: Car Jack
This is a little previous car, it is on any car, it is a type of panta jack which manually pulling up the car and lifting the car .
The merit of this jack is that,
Moreover, if it is a suspension that stretches well, I may not be able to take the tire even if I raise it up to the full jack (experiential talk), so I think that unless it is an emergency situation, it is not about as much as initiating it.
Jack type 2: Hydraulic pantograph jack
This is a panta type jack like a car, but it is a jack that can be lifted by the hydraulic force.
Since hydraulic type can jack up so easily that it can not return once it is used once , it is a good level to let the car jack down and put this in the car.
However, it is disadvantageous if it is heavier than the on- board jack (about 7 kg) and somewhat expensive .
Also, if handled sloppily, care must be taken because the oil in the hydraulic part leaks out or rises too high, it becomes unstable and it may be dangerous.
Jack type 3: Garage jack (small)
These small garage jacks are frequently used among me .
To a woman, a little kidney is not so heavy (about 12 kg), so the small turn is effective, and there is a sense of stability over the panta jack.
Also, since the reach (length) is about 60 cm, it is an authentic school which can reach even the jack-up point which is a little in the back.
Besides, it will be a size that can be loaded in the car.
This jack which I also use has been used for over 10 years, but durability is quite good as it can be used still more!
You can jack up in the same part as Panta Jack, or you can raise it with a jack up point on the body frame, which will be explained later.
Jack type 4: Garage jack (large)
With a bigger garage jack, the solid stability and the power to lift the guygui are such a jack that you want one family to experience once you experience it!
In exchange for its sense of stability and power, because it weighs around 30 kg, it is not suitable for carrying, so it is recommended for those who have a garage that can be fixed.
Also, because there is a length longer than the garage jack (small) (so the total length is about 80 cm above) the jack point in the back will easily reach.
However, be careful not to break if you have aero (front spoiler).
Point to hang on the car at jack-up time
The point of hitting a jack is different between Panta jack and garage jack.
Since it is quite dangerous to put a jack on the right place, I will explain that point.
However, since the points change according to the type of car, it is good to check on the internet before work or ask a mechanic at a car dealer.
"Jack" necessary to lift a car
I would like to change the oil of the engine when raising the hand without reaching the car body, but if you can receive the waste oil, you can lower the car you dropped (lowered the car height) or bolt in the back of the car body like mission oil If you loose it, you will need to do the work of lifting the car body, say jacking up .
With DIY there are cases like that, there are cases where it is relatively light only to exchange tires one at a time, so by changing the jacks used from time to time, you can secure safety while improving efficiency of work .
Let me introduce these four jacks as the type of jack used.
- Car jack
- Hydraulic pantograph jack
- Garage jack (small)
- Garage jack (large)
Since it is convenient to have any of them, it is also good to arrange them all together as far as even the storage space is permitted, and to use them properly.
Jack Type 1: Car Jack
This is a little previous car, it is on any car, it is a type of panta jack which manually pulling up the car and lifting the car .
The merit of this jack is that,
- The storage location is decided in the car
- Compact and lightweight
- Also, as a disadvantage, it is quite tiresome (laughs) because it is necessary to manually raise the kinkle for emergency such as exchanging with a spare tire at the time of puncture ,
Moreover, if it is a suspension that stretches well, I may not be able to take the tire even if I raise it up to the full jack (experiential talk), so I think that unless it is an emergency situation, it is not about as much as initiating it.
Jack type 2: Hydraulic pantograph jack
This is a panta type jack like a car, but it is a jack that can be lifted by the hydraulic force.
Since hydraulic type can jack up so easily that it can not return once it is used once , it is a good level to let the car jack down and put this in the car.
However, it is disadvantageous if it is heavier than the on- board jack (about 7 kg) and somewhat expensive .
Also, if handled sloppily, care must be taken because the oil in the hydraulic part leaks out or rises too high, it becomes unstable and it may be dangerous.
Jack type 3: Garage jack (small)
These small garage jacks are frequently used among me .
To a woman, a little kidney is not so heavy (about 12 kg), so the small turn is effective, and there is a sense of stability over the panta jack.
Also, since the reach (length) is about 60 cm, it is an authentic school which can reach even the jack-up point which is a little in the back.
Besides, it will be a size that can be loaded in the car.
This jack which I also use has been used for over 10 years, but durability is quite good as it can be used still more!
You can jack up in the same part as Panta Jack, or you can raise it with a jack up point on the body frame, which will be explained later.
Jack type 4: Garage jack (large)
With a bigger garage jack, the solid stability and the power to lift the guygui are such a jack that you want one family to experience once you experience it!
In exchange for its sense of stability and power, because it weighs around 30 kg, it is not suitable for carrying, so it is recommended for those who have a garage that can be fixed.
Also, because there is a length longer than the garage jack (small) (so the total length is about 80 cm above) the jack point in the back will easily reach.
However, be careful not to break if you have aero (front spoiler).
Point to hang on the car at jack-up time
The point of hitting a jack is different between Panta jack and garage jack.
Since it is quite dangerous to put a jack on the right place, I will explain that point.
However, since the points change according to the type of car, it is good to check on the internet before work or ask a mechanic at a car dealer.
SAVE YOUR TIRES - INCREASE THEIR LIFESPAN
Here are the five key rules that will keep them as long as possible
Rule 1: Monitor tire pressure
The tire pressure is recommended by the manufacturer is the one that is best suited to optimize their performance on your car. Be careful, tires, even new ones, regularly lose air. We must think about controlling the pressure every month ... not to mention the spare wheel. The valve plug, which may seem very secondary, is an essential part of the tire seal. If you miss one (or more), your garage will always have one or two lying in a corner. The pressure check must be carried out "cold", one hour after stopping the vehicle or, at most, after 3 kilometers traveled at low speed. If the check is made on a "hot" tire, the pressure will necessarily be higher: up to 0, 3 bars above the recommended cold pressure. This is normal, and that's why you should never deflate a tire that has just rolled on the grounds that it is over-inflated.
Namely over-inflation will always be less dangerous than under-inflation. The statistics of the ASFA (organization bringing together motorway companies in France) show that nearly one fatal accident in ten originates from the underinflation of one or more tires. Indeed, when the pressure is insufficient, the sides of the tire work abnormally. This results in excessive carcass fatigue, temperature rise and abnormal wear. The tire may suffer irreversible damage, the major risk being the bursting and loss of control of the car. As for over inflation, it can cause stability problems because the contact of the tire with the ground is decreased.
Rule 2: Check the balance of your tires
The rim-tire assembly must "turn round" ! If it has a small local overload (an imbalance), the wheel will be subjected, at certain speeds, to very strong vibrations which will reverberate in the direction. This phenomenon is not only unpleasant, it is also dangerous because it tires the joints of the suspension and affects the handling. Balancing a tire can only be done by a professional who has equipment capable of detecting unbalance. They will be offset by small masses of lead hung on the edge of the rim. Be careful, these weights can sometimes be torn off by a sidewalk. Check their presence frequently!
Rule 2: Check the wear of your tires
It is the tread that provides most of the grip of the tire on the road. It has wear indicators located at the bottom of the sculpture, in the main grooves generally wider. The tire must be changed as soon as these indicators are flush with the surface of the tread. Legally, the depth of the sculptures must not be less than 1.6 mm. The less deep his sculptures, the more the tire loses its ability to evacuate water. Therefore, even if your tires have not yet reached the stage of maximum wear, consider reducing your speed on wet ground. Also beware of cuts, shocks and blisters on the tread or on the outer ... and inner flanks (harder to check!).
Rule 1: Monitor tire pressure
The tire pressure is recommended by the manufacturer is the one that is best suited to optimize their performance on your car. Be careful, tires, even new ones, regularly lose air. We must think about controlling the pressure every month ... not to mention the spare wheel. The valve plug, which may seem very secondary, is an essential part of the tire seal. If you miss one (or more), your garage will always have one or two lying in a corner. The pressure check must be carried out "cold", one hour after stopping the vehicle or, at most, after 3 kilometers traveled at low speed. If the check is made on a "hot" tire, the pressure will necessarily be higher: up to 0, 3 bars above the recommended cold pressure. This is normal, and that's why you should never deflate a tire that has just rolled on the grounds that it is over-inflated.
Namely over-inflation will always be less dangerous than under-inflation. The statistics of the ASFA (organization bringing together motorway companies in France) show that nearly one fatal accident in ten originates from the underinflation of one or more tires. Indeed, when the pressure is insufficient, the sides of the tire work abnormally. This results in excessive carcass fatigue, temperature rise and abnormal wear. The tire may suffer irreversible damage, the major risk being the bursting and loss of control of the car. As for over inflation, it can cause stability problems because the contact of the tire with the ground is decreased.
Rule 2: Check the balance of your tires
The rim-tire assembly must "turn round" ! If it has a small local overload (an imbalance), the wheel will be subjected, at certain speeds, to very strong vibrations which will reverberate in the direction. This phenomenon is not only unpleasant, it is also dangerous because it tires the joints of the suspension and affects the handling. Balancing a tire can only be done by a professional who has equipment capable of detecting unbalance. They will be offset by small masses of lead hung on the edge of the rim. Be careful, these weights can sometimes be torn off by a sidewalk. Check their presence frequently!
Rule 2: Check the wear of your tires
It is the tread that provides most of the grip of the tire on the road. It has wear indicators located at the bottom of the sculpture, in the main grooves generally wider. The tire must be changed as soon as these indicators are flush with the surface of the tread. Legally, the depth of the sculptures must not be less than 1.6 mm. The less deep his sculptures, the more the tire loses its ability to evacuate water. Therefore, even if your tires have not yet reached the stage of maximum wear, consider reducing your speed on wet ground. Also beware of cuts, shocks and blisters on the tread or on the outer ... and inner flanks (harder to check!).